The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is powerful, deeply colored and still carrying a considerable amount of tannic heft for a twelve year old wine. Dark cherry, plum, smoke, tobacco, scorched earth and licorice give the wine much of its distinctive virile personality. The Madonna del Piano is one of the bigger, brawnier 2004s readers will come across. As such, it needs to be served alongside similarly rich, hearty cuisines.

Intense aromas of blackberry, blueberry and mineral, with just the right amount of licorice and mineral. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a beautiful finish. Best after 2012. 2,415 cases made.

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano continues to develop very positively. This huge, concentrated Madonna del Piano dazzles for the richness of its fruit and the delineation of its aromas. The clean, vibrant finish suggests many years of cellaring potential. The Valdicava Brunellos are often misunderstood when young because they possess so much richness, but with time in bottle the wines turn more delicate and complete. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. (Antonio Galloni)

Offering a ripe bouquet of cherry and raspberry, this is the fruitiest of this decade. The primary fruit flavors are allied to a velvety texture, backed by a solid layer of tannins. Despite the feel of surmaturité here, the finish is fresh and superlong.--Non-blind Valdicava Brunello vertical (July 2017). Best from 2020 through 2036. (BS)