The 2020 Brunello di Montalcino opens slowly in the glass, dark and earthy at first, gaining freshness as a cascade of violets and lavender accentuate red plums and hints of spice. It opens with a balanced inner sweetness offset by mineral-inflected red berries and brisk acidity carried over a wave of pure silk. The 2020 leaves a note of sour citrus, adding mouth-watering quality, classically formed tannins and a bitter blackberry tinge that keeps the taster going back for more. This comes across as classic in style despite the warm vintage.

Concentrated mid ruby. Deep, brooding but not open on the nose yet. Hints of black tea leaves. Compact, concentrated cherry slowly unfurling on the palate. Long aromatic cherry fruit with long chewy tannins. Complex and ageworthy. (WS)