The 2017 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione is a new wine in this range done in a super-classic style that saw 45 days on the skins, with submerged cap fermentation, an approach most often associated with old school Piedmont wines. The purity of the Sangiovese fruit is simply mind-blowing. Fine-grained tannins and an impossibly persistent finish round thins out in style. The new Gran Selezione is one of the most compelling young wines I have ever tasted at Querciabella.

Certified organic by Valoritalia. Suitable for vegans. Lustrous, deep ruby. Subdued raspberry and cherry hinting at proper depth and balsamic notes of cardamom pod, pepper and morocco leather. Lifted. Gorgeous, succulent and fruity, with bags of tannins that support the fruit. Suave and with lots of juice. Perfectly balanced, nothing sticks out. A triumph for this vintage and ageworthy. (WS)

Full bottle 1,517 g. Carefully selected from the Ruffoli eastern hillside in Greve. Aged 18 months in French oak barriques and tonneaux. Certified organic. Light nose with a strong suggestion of tangy acidity that's borne out on the palate with its notes of autumn mulch and leather. Pure Sangiovese structure with some smoothness and impressive persistence. Very suave indeed with a bone-dry finish which opens out like a peacock's tale, or a fine burgundy. (JR)