The character of this wine is more accessible and open-knit. The Le Ragnaie 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Petroso is less ethereal but more grounded, with an obvious delivery of fruit (and more primary intensity) framed by caramel, light tobacco leaf, redcurrant, cherry and wild plum. An herbal element comes forward too with white pepper and something fun that recalls cashew celery root. The mouthfeel veers toward chalky, and there is a hint of minerality with wet limestone or rose quartz. It shows managed tannins over mid-weight texture for a very elegant finish. These qualities give this 3,000-bottle release reasonable runway to age.

In the area of Petroso that’s right below the Il Palazzone estate and next to a plot owned by Biondi-Santi, at 500 m elevation. 50 days on the skins. Lustrous and just mid ruby. A little richer on the nose than Passo del Lume Spento. Perfumed raspberry and cherry with stony hints. Super-elegant palate weight combined with perfumed fruit and with firm but polished tannins that cling on to the finish. (WS)