The 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico La Fabriseria is from a line of wines that I have watched carefully evolve over the years. There was a time when I was not such a fan of its massiveness and overt sweetness. But the Tedeschi family has done a beautiful job of shaping an important expression that surely corners the market on a certain school of Amarone winemaking. It’s an extreme wine, not unlike the wines of nearby Roman Dal Forno, that needs plenty of time to find its footing – maybe ten years or more. La Fabriseria opens with an inky black, impenetrable appearance and Type-A aromas of exotic spice and stewed prune. Midnight tones of crushed granite, tobacco resin, teriyaki sauce and cured meat are all part of the massive bouquet. Drink 2016-2030. (Monica Larner)