Subtle struck-match aromas mingle with nutmeg spice and ripe, juicy stone fruit on the nose. Full-bodied with a broad, weighty palate and an awesome spectrum of flavours – from hazelnuts and brown butter to lemon curd, green mango, and lime oil. Superb delineation and concentration displayed. Carries a kind of opulence, at the same time as brilliant acidity, poise, and elegance. The finish is so long, and focused. Drink 2025-2040.

The 2022 Hunting Hill Chardonnay is mouthfilling and obvious in its outlay of flavor in the mouth—yellow peach, apricot, Golden Delicious apple, beeswax/lanolin and ripe lime flesh. The flutter of acidity that feathers the fruit is compelling and alluring in its power and juiciness. An exciting wine. It's a wine I want to drink (I will; the perks) and a wine I am enjoying considering too. It's intellectual and sensorial/corporeal in equal measure. The Hunting Hill Vineyard was planted in 1982 and overlooks Mate's Vineyard. This is a pleasurable, exciting, fleshy, complex, salty, kaleidoscopic wine. Excellent. Recommended. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

25% new oak. Lemon drops are found in grapes tasted by Michael Brajkovich apparently and also in the wine. The price is edging closer to Maté’s. Tense and racy and tight – sort of Chassagne/St-Aubin border?! More obvious acid and tension than in the other Kumeu River Chardonnays. You could definitely enjoy it already if you liked a leaner style but it would benefit from further ageing ideally. (JR)