As with Rays Road, give this time to breath, and then you have a beautiful nose of yellow apples, plump nectarines and sun-ripened apricots, honeysuckle, white pepper, and salted toasted hazelnuts. A powerful Chardonnay of considerable stature and complexity. Strikes the balance of being focused and chiselled, at the same time as presenting considerable richness and generosity. Stunning finish. Drink 2025-2040.

The 2022 Coddington Chardonnay leads with lemon balm/oil, green-olive brine, crème brûlée top (a.k.a. scorched brown sugar), peach fuzz, and an abundance of orchard fruit. In the mouth, kiwi fruit acidity (a.k.a. juicy, sweet, tart) defines the perimeters of the flavors and beckons you in for another, closer look. It's very, very good, a distinct wine, pure, all aspects delineated and deliberate. I like this. It feels orderly and mathematical. If the wine had a sound, it would be a straight-pace bowl at the wickets, one flying out of stumps (name a better sound, I'll wait). It's not that immediately obvious, though; it builds and takes a while to assert itself, and I like that too. Very good. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

They have a lease for three more years on this vineyard which changed hands recently and they’re now managing the vines themselves to good effect. 25% new oak. Very pale straw. Rich and quite intense. With some savour and vibrancy. Lots of grip. Very bright fruit with good appeal and perhaps a bit less obviously sweet than in the past. (JR)