One of the most consistent producers in Martinborough, no doubt because of the intensive handwork carried out in the vineyards, Kusuda has crafted a terrific 2017 Pinot Noir. Thyme and rosemary notes accent black cherry fruit in this medium to full-bodied wine that manages to have ample depth without any weight. It's plump and silky, with red fruit—think pomegranate and raspberries—on the long finish.

Hand-picked 28 March to 2 April with rigorous selection at 21–23 Brix. The same rich clonal mix as the 2018. TA 4.9 g/l, pH 3.73. 97% destemmed, cold soaked for 4 to 6 days. Fermented in open stainless-steel vats with pumping-over and hand-plunging for a total maceration period of 22 to 25 days. Aged in French (19% new) oak barriques for 15 months. Unfined and bottled with coarse filtration on 31 August 2018. 4,667 bottles produced. Mid-transparent garnet; looks more youthful than the 2018. Very rich nose suggests a wine with more alcohol than 13%. Again, so clean and pure – though this time with real fruit impact. A hint of orange and tamarind on the palate. Wonderful persistence with a building fan of flavour on the finish. Real reverberation and depth. A wine that sings! (JR)