The 1982 Verdelho contains 108g/L residual sugar and was aged for 40 years in very old oak casks. Deep amber in color, it has a well-defined, mellow bouquet with mahogany antique bureau, crème brûlée, singed leather and bonfire aromas that cohere nicely in the glass. The palate is very well balanced with fine tannins and just the right amount of acidity to counter that sweet edge on the finish. This feels like an animated Verdelho, with impressive tension and real finesse coming through toward its slight oxidative finish. This is a classy offering. 1,206 bottles produced.

Canteiro aged. RS 108 g/l, TA 10.3 g/l. Hold this wine to your nose and you're smitten. It'll own you from the first moment you breathe it in. Saffron, roasted rice, rich and deep and thrilling. The acidity is terrifyingly graceful. It has the cold, still hold of the light of a planet in a clear, midnight sky. A laser could not cut such a perfect white-light hole in the blue-black of night. But the heart of the wine is tucked into earth: pecans, herbs and lemon-splashed apricots. Layers and layer and layers. Forget words. Just pour it and breathe. (TC)