The 1957 Bual (Bottled 2017) has a strict and linear bouquet for this category with scents of clove and hazelnut; an antique mahogany bureau and slightly higher VA than other Buals of similar age. The palate has a pleasant freshness and weight in the mouth with notes of candied orange peel, white pepper, fennel, cloves and just enough VA to lend a nice residual warmth in the mouth. It constitutes a more approachable Bual than others that I have encountered. The 1957 does not assert heaviness in the mouth and yet ninety seconds later I can still feel those lovely Christmas cake and spice notes lingering in the mouth.

Bottled 2017. Mid brownish gold with a hint of green. Smells sweet and nutty and vaguely of polished wood. The most perfect balance between sweetness and mouth-watering acidity. That nutty flavour comes through strongly on the palate but also with the orange of long-matured dark marmalade, though not as sweet as that would be. Stunny nutty, walnut-bitter complexity clothed in burnt caramel and then with spiced bitter orange on the finish. Layers and layers of flavour. (JH)

Mid-deep amber – mahogany in colour with a reddish glint; fine, rich, lifted orange marmalade aromas with a hint of treacle toffee, just a touch singed around the edges; fine and lithe on the palate, crystalised fruits though seemingly not that sweet in style for a Bual (102 g/l residual sugar), perfect texture and poise mid-palate leading to a candied citrus finish together with a touch of honey and butterscotch richness. Ethereal. Just over 1,500 bottles in total.