The 1969 Bual (bottled November 2012) has a lucid amber/mahogany color with a green tinge on the rim. The nose is mellow at first, but rapidly gains momentum with scents of molasses, smoke, hazelnut and an antique bureau. It is well-defined, a little more oxidative than I expected, but that is no bad thing. The palate is lively and fresh on the entry with a killer line of acidity that lends this Bual more than enough tension and nervosite. Marmalade, quince, touches of tobacco and even a touch of chili oil inform this vivacious Bual, and it is only after three to four hours aeration that it begins to settle. Indeed, like all great Madeira wines, the 1969 tastes more harmonious and focused the following day, confirming Noel Cossart’s observation all those years ago. This is a real treat. Importer: Premium Port Wines Inc., San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 554-9920; fax (415) 554-0380