The 2003 Vintage Port is a field blend bottled in 2005 after 21 months in wood. It comes in with 85 grams of residual sugar. Although an oldie, this is about to be rereleased. Gorgeous, this obviously once had bold and upfront fruit. It still does to some extent, but now you get more nuance and maturity and a big hit of complexity. That's not to say this is too old. In fact, it is rather youthful in many respects, with a couple of decades of life left. There sure is no rush to consume it, and it may do even better than indicated. In the meanwhile, you get something with some maturity and complexity at a very nice price. This is a great deal.

The 2003 Croft Vintage Port reveals an opaque, black-colored core with notes of dark ruby on the rim. Its gorgeously creamy, profound nose displays sweet dark cherries, black plums, pepper, raisin jam, and blueberries. Thick, satin-textured, and immensely rich, this opulent yet elegant wine is engagingly warm, concentrated, and harmonious. Copious quantities of plums, black cherries, jammy blackberries and spices are found throughout its personality as well as in its prolonged, spirit-tinged, finish. Projected maturity: 2020-2045. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

The 2003 Croft has a relatively exotic nose for this Port, with cherry liqueur, peat, licorice and melted dark chocolate on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent, ripe black fruit. It is plush and heady, the acidity lower than the 2007 or 2009, so that the finish is rounded, decadent and spicy, without the tension and class of other vintages. It is a hedonistic delight, but it would not be my choice of Croft at the moment. Tasted March 2013.