Fonseca has scored in both the 1991 and 1992 vintages. The 1992 is a majestic young port that should ultimately rival, perhaps even surpass this house's most recent great efforts (1985, 1977, 1970, 1963). This colossal vintage port reveals a nearly opaque black/purple color, and an explosive nose of jammy black fruits, licorice, chocolate, and spices. Extremely full-bodied and unctuously-textured, this multi-layered, enormously-endowed port reveals a finish that lasts for over a minute. It is a magnificent port that will age well for 30-40 years. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300.

An earthy, fig-infused nose that is more expressive and open than expected whilst it is complemented by a scent of sea salt. The palate is supple, chocolaty and with a sense of minerality. It does not have the depth and concentration of the 2000 but it is still very fine. Drink 2012-2040. Tasted October 2003.

Deep healthy crimson. Some treacle and more than a suggestion of volatile acidity. Slightly syrupy fortified red wine. Still very vigorous and youthful – it probably needs rather more time to knit together. Very firm tannins and a dry finish. No shortage of alcohol. (JR)

Mid-deep brick-garnet. Mellow notes of old tobacco and old leather, supported by dried black-cherry fruit and woody spice notes. Juicy acidity and a fair depth of flavour, but the somewhat grainy tannins stand out a bit, plus the alcohol penetrates the finish. I don’t think this is Fonseca’s finest. (TJ)