1994 Fonseca, Vintage Port

One of the most spectacular 1994s, this opaque purple-colored wine is an exotic, flamboyant, ostentatious port. Extremely fragrant and pungent, with a flashy display of jammy cassis, pepper, licorice, and truffles, this port is an attention-grabber. Awesomely rich, and full-bodied, with superb length, richness, and overall balance, it possesses a huge mid-palate, layers of flavor, an unctuous texture, and a blockbuster finish. Everything is in place, with the brandy and tannin well-integrated, even concealed by the masses of fruit and glycerin. This wine will drink fabulously well at age ten, but keep for up to thirty years. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2035. Importer: Kobrand Corp., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

Very, very dark crimson with the tiniest hints at evolution at the rim. Some green leaves and definite life. Now this wine has concentration of fruit right through the tasting experience with a sweet start and a good, dry, appetising finish. Real vivacity and length. (JR)