Graham is another great port house, producing one of the deepest-colored and sweetest styles of vintage port. Along with Taylor and Fonseca, Graham has probably been the most consistent producer of great port in the post- World War II era. Their tawnys are quite good rather than exceptional, but their vintage ports are truly sublime and sumptuous.

Tasted at dinner at Christies boardroom. What a stunning 1963 vintage port this is! The bouquet draws you in, does not drag you in with its alcohol and reveals a fresh, well defined nose with a nutty edge, hints of cigar box and allspice. The palate is beautifully balanced, understated on the entry but building all the time, flashes of eucalyptus leading towards a more extrovert, clove tinged finish that hangs around the palate like an obsessed ex-girlfriend. Gorgeous Grahams! Drink now-2030. Tasted May 2009.

Light bricky red. Mint and eucalyptus and still a note of bitter orange. Silky tannins with some barley-sugar on the finish and terrific freshness. Silky but dry, ultra-fine tannins and all in remarkable and perfect balance at this age. Wonderfully energetic. (JH)

This was made from field blends at a time when there was no electricity in the quintas. Transparent garnet. Wonderfully delicate. Subtle and so fresh. A jewel of a vintage port that is only just starting to fall apart. (JR)

Tasted blind. Fair depth of tawny colour. Meaty, spicy and a little spirity, with smoky, dark chocolate. Molasses, dark chocolate and plum pudding on the palate, with lots of weight and depth. Just a touch of heat on the finish. Long though. (TJ)