Graham is another great port house, producing one of the deepest-colored and sweetest styles of vintage port. Along with Taylor and Fonseca, Graham has probably been the most consistent producer of great port in the post- World War II era. Their tawnys are quite good rather than exceptional, but their vintage ports are truly sublime and sumptuous. Graham is the undisputed star and kingpin of the 1985 vintage ports. Yes, it is made in a sweeter style than the other ports, but it is a fabulous wine because of a dazzling level of black-cherry fruit, an enormous structure, and staggering depth, dimension, and length. It is forward, as are all 1985s, and I would speculate that this port will be approaching maturity by 1992-93 and will keep 15-20 years thereafter.

This wine will be released next year, recorked and relabelled as part of their first Private Cellars collection. Deep garnet with narrow bricky rim, darker in colour than the Warre's 1985 and also 'darker' in aroma. Still marked by black fruits. Thick and chewy with a touch of eucalyptus but not as much as on the Warre's 1963. And then a grainy, mocha aftertaste and a very long finish. Still more to show, I think, even though this is already a mature wine. (JH)

Bright, glowing crimson. Dense and broad and luscious. Peppery finish. Not as sweet as some Graham's, and with more concentration than Graham's 1980. Polished, long and rich. Big and round. (JR)

Deep garnet. A touch of spirit alongside lifted floral notes, with smoky minerality and underlying red fruit. Rich, sweet, full bodied and silky. Long, Christmas-cake finish, though the alcohol is again evident, taking this away from being in the top flight. (TJ)