The 2012 Vintage Port is part of our mini-vertical this issue. Since this was last seen, it has come along beautifully. It is actually richer, lusher and more seductive than the 2011, which focuses on power, while still showing admirable mid-palate finesse. That said, it really isn't as concentrated, and it certainly is not as well structured. It is still an unusually sexy Noval with a hedonistic overlay. It is pretty approachable. You may not conclude it is the best of the group, but everyone's going to adore it.

Lucid purple/ruby in color, the first thing to strike you is the purity on the nose. There is a surfeit of fresh fig, prune and raisin that actually brings to mind a more tempered Fonseca. It is beautifully defined, not the most complex Noval, but seemingly approachable just like the 2011. The palate is well endowed with plenty of tangy, very spicy dark plums and blackcurrant fruit, a healthy dash of cracked black pepper and a very animated, attacking finish that is determined to make an impression, if not to be overshadowed by the 2011. This is a superb addition to recent Noval releases, one that I perhaps would broach earlier than others. Just 1,000 cases for this limited release. Importer: Vintus; contact Alexander Michas; tel. (914) 769-3000