Amazingly, the importer still has tiny stocks of such legendary ports as the 1970, 1963, and 1962 Nacionals. In most vintages the production of Quinta do Noval Nacional is no more than 250-275 cases. The 1970,1963,1962 and 1994 are candidates to achieve perfect scores. The 1963 Nacional's opaque purple color is remarkable, looking more like a 1992 than a 33-year old port. The wine possessed a fabulously smoky, cassis, black-cherry, peppery nose. After thirty minutes in the glass, fruitcake notes and more evolved aromas emerged. This port is so concentrated it defies belief, with extraordinary balance, and, like its two siblings, well-integrated alcohol and tannin. The impression is one of a silky, succulent, voluptuously-textured mouthful of exceptionally extracted port. This is a legend in the making. In 30-40 years it may well be considered, along with the 1931, as one of the greatest ports ever produced. Those lucky few with a bottle or two should plan to hold onto them for another decade before pulling the cork. It, too, is a hundred-year port. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (908) 225-9000

I mean, what can you say? One of the best ports ever made? No scents of glue on this bottle, just unadulterated blissful scents of damson, mint, leather and cigar box with ineffable delineation and vitality. The palate is perfectly balanced, brilliantly focused, as fresh as a daisy, imbued with such effortless grace thanks to those fine, but perfectly structured tannins. The only reason I did not give this bottle a perfect score was that if I had the choice between this and Taylor’s ’35, I would go for that. But who knows in another 30-years time? Magnificent. Drink now-2020+. Tasted June 2008.

Quite stunning. This magical wine is still dark ruby at 50 years old! Still very dense, too, managing to combine finesse with a character that is a bit burnt, rich and ever so slightly salty. More throat warming (after the Colheita 1979) and such personality! (JR)