Amazingly, the importer still has tiny stocks of such legendary ports as the 1970, 1963, and 1962 Nacionals. In most vintages the production of Quinta do Noval Nacional is no more than 250-275 cases. The 1970,1963,1962 and 1994 are candidates to achieve perfect scores. The 1994 Nacional is an incredibly rich, massive wine, yet at the same time, well-balanced and amazingly well-delineated. The color is an opaque purple. In addition to the abundant peppery, floral, cassis fruit, there is an ethereal character to this super-rich, pure wine that is not the least bit heavy. A compelling Nacional, it possesses even more stuffing than the regular bottling (as one might suspect), and at least 30-40 years of longevity. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2050. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (908) 225-9000

The 1994 Quinta do Noval Naçional has a gorgeous, nearly outrageous peppermint and menthol scented nose that soars from the glass with beautiful definition. Touches of clove and boot polish appear in the background. The palate is very well balanced, powerful and almost viscous in texture, counterbalanced by a fine bead of acidity. Pure and decadent towards the finish, but everything is controlled and delineated. This is only just beginning to open and show what it can do. Tasted at the Cantenac Brown vertical at the château.

Our host Christian Seely's first vintage at the estate before going on to run all of AXA Millésimes' properties. Extremely rich and sweet but jewel-bright and utterly captivating. (JR)