Black pepper, sealing wax, spices, and toast are found in the nose of the potentially exceptional 2003 Warre Vintage Port. A concentrated, backward effort, its youthful, classically ungenerous, masculine character reveals black pepper laced dark fruits. Silky-textured in its immensely endowed mid-palate, this top-flight effort displays an admirably long, tannin-filled finish. It will require serious cellaring. Projected maturity: 2030-2050. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

A very sweet blackberry, smoky nose that lacks the intensity of the Dow ‘03. A lithe, pretty palate, quite feminine for a port with notes of blackberry, raisin, plum and tar. Good acidity, nice balance and freshness. More forward than other ports - this will make fine drinking over 5-20 years. Drink 2008-2025. Tasted May 2005.