Single vineyard (2 ha). Spontaneous ferment and 20 months on lees in older wood. Delicate, creamy citrus with high acid to balance. Intense, zesty and needs time – all too primary at the moment and not fully meshed but has all the ingredients in place for a longer future. (The 2008 that Craig Wessels gave me blind – it’s no longer available – was delicious, though I took it to be it a mature Sémillon.) Deep and long. (JH)

Hand-picked over two weeks in early February. Whole-bunch pressed in ‘The Yellow Submarine’, an old Vaslin press from the 1970s. After a 4-hour press, the oxidised juice was lightly settled overnight, then gravity fed to a variety of different-sized old French oak barrels. Spontaneous fermentation took up to 21 days, after which some SO 2 was added and the wine remained in barrel, sur lie, for 6 – 9 months. Light fining before being racked out of barrel into tank, where it rested for a few months before bottling. The wine was then bottled-aged for 2 years before release. Natural cork. Tasted blind. Light and coconutty nose, with very powerful acidity. Still extremely youthful, not to say fossilised! Super-fresh. But just a tad hard. (JR)