"The big thing is the soil," says Adi Badenhorst of this Chenin Blanc from a vineyard on red clay and granite at 320 metres. Showing some appropriate colour in the glass, it's a white with plenty of structure and concentration, showing apricot and yellow apple flavours, hints of aniseed and thatch and some phenolic grip.

For the first time, the 2021 The Golden Slopes is matured only in concrete. It has a precise, quite stony bouquet with a light sea spray element and a touch of yellow fruit. The palate is well balanced with a vibrant entry, peach skin and a touch of iodine, fairly feisty on the finish. This is well worth seeking out. Very fine.