Boekenhoutskloof has always made impressive, age-worthy Semillons, but Gottfried Mocke has taken the 2020 to another level of complexity. Using grapes from three old parcels, planted in 1902, 1936 and 1942, with the largest component from the legendary La Colline vineyard, this includes 2% Muscat d'Alexandrie and some field-blended Semillon Gris. Fermented in two thirds new wood, with the rest seeing concrete eggs and amphoras, it's one of the greatest ever Cape whites. Stony, flinty and layered, with wax, lemongrass and nutmeg flavours and subtle struck match reduction. Wow!

The 2020 Semillon Boekenhoutskloof comes from three parcels of old vines, one parcel planted in 1902 and an adjacent one in 1942 (50% of the blend) and includes a seasoning of Muscat d'Alexandria also planted in 1902 that is purposefully picked underripe. This is aged in 70% new oak. It has a wonderful, vivacious bouquet with honeysuckle, jasmine, lemon rind and lanolin. It's one of the finest Semillon aromatics that I have encountered. The palate has a vibrant, slightly flinty opening and a tiny reduction that according to winemaker Gottfried Mocke, ebbs after a couple of years (he opined this comes from the soils quarts content). Lovely tension here with lemon curd and peach skin notes towards the persistent finish. Superb.