Wine Advocate October, 2013 The 2010 Columella saw just 10% of the crop aged in new large casks. The nose is well-defined and as nonchalant as Eben Sadie himself, gently unravelling blackberry, charcoal, eau-de-vie and allspice scents that are perfectly controlled. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, slightly grainy tannins. It is extremely well-balanced with supremely well-judged acidity. I much prefer this toned-down style of late, allowing the grape varieties and terroir to be articulated without interruption. Gorgeous! Drink 2014-2022.

The 2010 Columella saw just 10% of the crop aged in new large casks. The nose is well-defined and as nonchalant as Eben Sadie himself, gently unravelling blackberry, charcoal, eau-de-vie and allspice scents that are perfectly controlled. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, slightly grainy tannins. It is extremely well-balanced with supremely well-judged acidity. I much prefer this toned-down style of late, allowing the grape varieties and terroir to be articulated without interruption. Gorgeous! Drink 2014-2022. Eben Sadie told me at the Cape Wine Show back in September 2012 that he was looking forward to focusing all his energies upon South Africa, now that he has relinquished his venture in Priorat. His wines continue to furrow their own individual path, distinctive in so many ways. At some future point I plan to write in more detail about Eben, so for now let’s get straight to what is another raft of exceptional wines. Importer: Broadbent Selections, Richmond, VA; tel. (804) 353-1818

From a warm vintage. 80% S yrah, 17% Mourvèdre, 3% Grenache from eight vineyards. Yield 14–18 hl/ ha. 'French oak barrels, Bordeaux Traditional selection. Tight grain. The ageing takes place for 12 months on the lees and then we rack and an additional year of ageing takes place in big oval casks (foudre) on the fine lees.' Garnet. Bit more muted and salty on the nose than some vintages, with a hint of cocoa. Sweet and round but a tad baked-tasting with a little heat on the end. (JR)