The 2013 Columella is matured for ten months in cask with 10% new oak, and then another ten months in foudres; Eben believes this slows down the maturation. It has a very complex bouquet, mercurial on the nose, and bestowed with wild strawberry and cranberry scents, incense and a hint of marmalade that is beautifully detailed. The palate is medium-bodied, extremely refined and mineral-laden, symmetrical and standing on tip-toes on the finish -- something that this label could not do when Eben started. It is compact at the moment, but it will turn into an astonishing Swartland wine.

Dark crimson. Wonderful combination of richness and freshness. Bone-dry finish and some dustiness. Juicy before that dusty finish. Tangy. Even if not as outstanding as the white counterpart Palladius. (JR)