The renowned Unico (produced from 80-100 year old vines) is one of the world's most distinctive, singular wines. Always released late, it is incredibly fresh, and capable of 2-3 more decades of evolution. The 1987 Unico Reserva's opaque ruby/purple color is accompanied by a glorious perfume of sweet cherries, flowers, licorice, and toasty oak. Full-bodied, with tremendous brightness and texture as well as an elegant, long, head-turning finish, it is undoubtedly super juice. However, for the difference in price, readers might opt to purchase either the 1997 or 1998 Valbuena. Anticipated maturity for the 1987 Unico Reserva: now-2022.

Pablo Alvarez believes 1987 was an atypical vintage for Vega Sicilia and that initially the Unico was “very tense, not generous and unusually harsh” but in bottle, he finds that it has become relaxed and whole. A blend of 80% Tinto Fino, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot/Malbec, it has a comparatively introspective bouquet with blackberry, warm gravel, blood orange and raspberry coulis. It opens nicely with aeration although it retains some of its saturnine nature that was apparently remarked upon its release. The palate is medium-bodied with an attractive, edgy bitter note on the entry. The tannins are a little coarse compared to other vintages but harmonious in the mouth. It is interwoven by edgy, crisp acidity with touches of cooked meat and mandarin, plus a little liquorice towards the sappy, succulent finish. It is missing a little flair, but represents a fine, assertive style of Unico that should mellow with bottle age. 79,240 bottles produced. Drink 2014-2030+.

Medium ruby. Sappy raspberry, game and spices on the nose. A wine of great verve and sweetness; lush and chewy but also urgent and sharply delineated. Bracing acids give this dense wine buns of steel. Wonderful expanding finish features strong but thoroughly ripe tannins. An outstanding vintage for this legendary wine.

The 1987 Único contains not only 10% Cabernet Sauvignon but also 10% between Merlot and Malbec, cropped from a somewhat challenging vintage (but not as challenging as in some places in France). The wine reached 14% alcohol and is delicate and harmonious with good acidity that lifts it up. It has some ethereal qualities and comes through as elegant rather than powerful. 2,030 magnums produced. Artwork by Manuel Losada.

Clearly more mature, with its paler garnet colour. More developed in the mouth with tomato and red cherry preserves. Very long and fresh finish, even if no longer as complete as others. Vega Sicilia says 'it demonstrates the elegance of old wines,' and it does. Cold, rainy winter, before a soft and rainy spring; a ‘very difficult harvest with risk’. 18 months in large wooden tanks, then decanted into old and progressively older casks over the course of 24 months, and used casks for the next 60 months before ageing in bottle. 79,240 bottles, 2,030 magnums and 110 double magnums. Tasted from magnum.

80% Tinto Fino, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot and Malbec. ‘Very difficult’ harvest. After 18 months in large wooden tanks it was decanted to old and progressively older casks during 24 months and into used casks for the next 60 months. 79,240 bottles, 2,030 magnums and 110 double magnums. From magnum. Transparent garnet. Heady and voluptuous on the nose and then really quite cool and fresh on the palate. Lightly powdery texture on the end. Remarkably clean and fresh. (JR)