At this point in time the single-vineyard and top-of-the-range Cariñena, the 2012 Les Tosses, feels very reductive and needs lots of air. It has an incredible pH of 2.98, and in the dry 2012 season these 90-year-old vines on black slate at 650 meters altitude behaved magnificently. The wine matured for two years in oak foudre from Austria. The nose takes forever to take off so you have to guide yourself by the prodigious palate where the balance is gobsmacking (literally!) and full of an earthy, rustic and mineral character that has hints of liquid graphite and tree bark. It really shows the essence of Priorat. The 2013, still not bottled, is tremendous as it is much more open, very indigenous and something to look for next year. If 2011 was a triumph over the vintage conditions, this 2012 had the growing season working for it and the results are even better. This year Tosses and Manyes are at the same quality level. On day two the wine is completely open and expressive showing no sign of fatigue or reduction whatsoever. To the contrary, it shows fresh and much better. This should develop tremendously in bottle. 1,500 bottles were produced in 2012.

(100% carinena, aged for two years in 500-liter French oak casks): Brilliant ruby. Drop-dead gorgeous, exotically perfumed aromas of candied red fruits, potpourri, Asian spices and sandalwood, with a bright mineral overtone and a touch of smokiness. Sweet, palate-staining raspberry liqueur and rose pastille flavors gain depth and power with air and show superb clarity. Smooth, spicy and relentless on the finish, which is framed by pliant, fully integrated tannins. A remarkable expression of the variety and one of the most complex wines that I've tasted this year, from anywhere.