A Rioja time capsule: that is the feeling you'll have when tasting the wines of López de Heredia, particularly the 2004 Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia. The 2004 is a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano, cultivated on the meander of the Ebro River in Rioja Alta. Aged for ten years in barrel and an additional ten years in bottle, this bricked wine showcases dried black fruit, licorice, hazelnut and cedar nuances, along with resin, cola and garrigue . Dry and chalky, the silky and faintly juicy flow culminates with a long-lasting finish infused with thyme notes. This beautifully aged wine reflects old-school craftsmanship—it's the essence of time and terroir.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2004 Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva didn't stop growing and changing in the glass for the good three hours that lasted the tasting of the portfolio. I had tasted this wine on my previous visit (they don't usually open future Gran Reserva vintages), and I was very impressed. This was aromatic (but took some time in the glass to open up), floral, perfumed, elegant and nuanced. The year was excellent, textbook, and the grapes from Viña Tondonia were picked from the 11th of October, the dates from yesteryear. I had the exceptional 2001 Parreno two weeks before I tasted this wine, and I found many similarities between both wines. It has complex notes of forest floor, truffle, wild herbs, spices and mushrooms and a touch of iodine. This is velvety, with super elegant tannins and a supple finish. It has clout and persistence, but there's also something ethereal about it. It's full of energy, light and power. This should be almost eternal. Bravo! 24,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2018.