Intensely expressive on the nose, a kaleidoscope of aromas is immediately revealed, of ripe red plum and cherry, dried orange peel, dried oregano and rosemary, and lots of exotic spices (think harissa and five-spice). On the palate this is surprisingly opulent, with a rich, velvety texture, and a full, generous body. If you’re going to make the comparisons to Bordeaux – and Luis Gutiérrez calls Arana ‘the classical Haro style of Rioja Claret’ – then we are very definitely on the Right Bank. There is a Pomerol-esque hedonism, which is instantly appealing. This richness is balanced with an appetising, brisk acidity. There is a sandy feel to the tannins on the back palate, and a dry, somewhat grippy finish, which will soften with further bottle age. But do not doubt that this is giving a lot of drinking pleasure right now (or it will when it arrives in the UK at Christmas!). With time in glass, more and more layers of complexity emerge – melted milk chocolate, mulberry, and charred rosemary. It’s a classic pairing, no doubt, but this got us thinking of drinking a bottle with grilled lamb chops.... There is a lot to love here!

The 2016 Viña Arana Gran Reserva is an elegant blend of Tempranillo with 5% Graciano matured in used American oak barrels for three years. During this time, the wine was manually racked from barrel to barrel, with the help of a candle, six times. It's ripe at 14.5% alcohol, with pungent notes of forest floor and truffles, dark spices and an earthy touch. It has a powerful palate, with very good freshness and acidity, reflecting the cooler year. It has some tannins that would welcome food. 60,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2021.