The MV Brut Blanc de Blancs Reserve Blend RB45 opens with subtle creaminess and a trace of ripe yellow apple, both carried on a sea breeze. An oystershell saltiness strikes the palate, accompanied by a visceral sense of umami that pulls you in. Yes, this is Blanc de Blancs from chalk, with beautiful depth, yet mellow and balanced. A bright and delicious streak of lemon runs through it. This wine is beautifully long and lovely now but certain to evolve in the bottle. Disgorged: January 2022. (Anne Krebiehl MW)

The MV Brut Blanc de Blancs Reserve Blend RB45 opens with subtle creaminess and a trace of ripe yellow apple, both carried on a sea breeze. An oystershell saltiness strikes the palate, accompanied by a visceral sense of umami that pulls you in. Yes, this is Blanc de Blancs from chalk, with beautiful depth, yet mellow and balanced. A bright and delicious streak of lemon runs through it. This wine is beautifully long and lovely now but certain to evolve in the bottle. Disgorged: January 2022. (Anne Krebiehl MW)

A stunningly slender, carved-back-to-the-bone wine which tastes of salty sea winds and stone cliffs, lemon shards and bleached shells. It's so focused that when I taste it, it feels like a rapier through the spine. Humming with tiny electric vibrations, the minute bubbles give the wine a kind of tightly controlled current in the mouth – nothing about this highly disciplined wine is explosive. But it does taste like English sparkling Chardonnay in high-res, microscopic pixellation. If you're celebrating with naked oysters (squeeze of lemon) or simple smoked salmon (nothing but a squeeze of lemon), this is the wine. Drink 2022-2030 (TC)