The 2018 St. Eden is impressive. Dense and powerful in the glass, the 2018 is done in a style that emphasizes freshness and vibrancy, reflecting a generational transition in all of these wines that is most apparent here. Dark fruit, licorice, mocha, spice and chocolate begin to emerge with time, but the St. Eden is much less forthcoming than in the past. In fact, the 2018 might very well be the most reticent St. Eden I have ever tasted. That energy will serve it well in the cellar. Readers accustomed to the voluptuous, lush St. Edens of the past will not find that in the 2018. As much as the style has changed in this wine, I am not surprised to see that. A complete vertical of the Bond wines a few years ago showed the St. Eden to have the most condensed arc of peak drinkability of the Bond wines.

A barrel sample, the 2018 St. Eden is deep garnet-purple in color. The nose is a little closed at this nascent stage, offering broody glimpses at blackcurrant jelly, boysenberries and black raspberries before opening out to a spicy undercurrent of cloves, black pepper and cumin seed. The palate is built like a brick house with a solid structure of ripe, grainy tannins and a lively backbone framing the full-bodied, muscular fruit, finishing long and layered. St. Eden comes from a red, rocky, iron-rich vineyard site located just north of the Oakville Crossroad in the Vaca Mountains.