Good bright ruby-red. Aromas of cassis, licorice, dark chocolate and menthol. Dense, thick and powerful, with a chewy texture and impressive concentration to the plummy fruit. This has a silky texture but no shortage of inner-mouth energy. Finishes long and aromatic, with late-arriving tannins. In spite of Barrett's description of the "Aussie-like surmaturite" that figured in the harvest of 2004, I am not put off by a hot-vintage character. (However, I retasted the 2003 this year and found it in a very tough stage, with the tannins cutting off the fruit; on this occasion I scored the wine 89+?. My impression is that the 2004 was made from more consistently ripe fruit.). This wine weighs in at 14.2% alcohol, making it the first Montelena estate cabernet to surpass 14% since the '78, which was 14.4%.

Tannic and austere at this stage of its development is the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon. While it reveals fine density, it is more primary, backward, and difficult to fully judge compared to its two predecessors. The good news is that there are 8,000-10,000 cases produced. At the end of my tastings, Bo Barrett opened a 1986 Montelena (rated 94), and it is still incredibly young, rich, vibrant, and full-bodied. It is a terrific expression of Calistoga Cabernet Sauvignon made by a master. It appears to have another 20-25 years of aging potential. (Release date 9/07) Tel. (707) 942-5105; Fax (707) 942-4221

The winery continues to turn out a strong Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards in the Calistoga area. This is a big production item (10,000 cases), and tends to be a good value for a high-class Napa Cabernet. The 2004 has supple tannins, the vintage’s very fruit-forward character, a dark ruby/purple color, and notes of damp earth intermixed with black currant and spice box in a medium to full-bodied, lush style to drink now and over the next 10-12 years.