Very good deep ruby-red. Superripe aromas of crystallized red berries, cassis, graphite and grilled nuts. Lush, sweet and minerally; already displays compelling inner-mouth complexity and superb delineation. Youthful fruit flavors show less of the meaty quality that characterized some recent vintages of this wine. Very strong underlying backbone. The wine's lovely sweetness carries through to the very long finish, which features dusty, even tannins.

As for the 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, this wine seems more subdued than it did last year and might be going through a relatively closed stage. As it sat in the glass, it took on an almost Ducru-Beaucaillou or Leoville-Las Cases St.-Julien-like character, with notes of minerals, cedar wood, black currants, tobacco, and spice. This is a rich, dark ruby/purple-colored wine with very complex aromatics, medium to full body, tight structure and plenty of tannin in the finish. There are 20,000 cases. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025. Tel. (707) 226-1395 and (800) MONDAVI; fax (707) 251-4386.

The 1997 is the most fruit-driven Mondavi Reserve of the decade, with a heady bouquet of blackberry, balsamic cherry, cigar ash and chocolate. On the palate the wine is ample, open-knit and powerful, with melted but slightly stringy tannins.

TCA-affected unfortunately. (JR)