The 2009 Promontory is a magnificent Bordeaux-styled red offering up notes of burning embers, scorched earth (not terribly dissimilar from a top Pessac-Leognan such as La Mission Haut-Brion), black fruits, loamy undertones of minerality, and hints of camphor and background oak. Dense, masculine, rich and full, this 2009 is built for the long-term, although for a 2009, the tannins are remarkably well-integrated, giving the wine definition and structure. This 2009 should age for 25+ years. This is the newest project of Harlan Estate’s Bill Harlan. I did not visit the 80-acres of land that includes vineyard parcels at 500 to 1,100 foot elevations. It is situated in rough country that is accessible only by a fire trail, and the vineyards are located up from and behind the vineyards of Dominus and Blankiet, thus qualifying as part of the Yountville appellation. The soils are primarily volcanic and sedimentary. Ever the perfectionist, Bill Harlan has already made six vintages, but has not yet decided when to release any of them, although it would appear from our discussions that 2009 will be the initial release of this Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend. I think readers should plan on placing Promontory’s Proprietary Red in the same context as the Harlan Estate. Most Napa wine connoisseurs are certainly aware that Harlan Estate is one of Napa Valley’s most iconic wines, and a true first-growth if such a thing existed in Napa. One thing for sure, these wines will not be inexpensive, but the quality is extremely promising. www.promontoryestate.com

The 2009 Promontory is striking in its beauty. Clean veins of minerality and acidity support the fruit in a vibrant, layered Cabernet Sauvignons that stands out for its energy. The vibrant mountain tannins are present, but there is also more than enough fruit to balance those contours. Sweet herbs, menthol, lavender and wild flowers all add nuance on the crystalline finish. Today the 2009 is dense, compact and powerful. The tannins are firm yet fine grained.

Deep ruby. Sexy cardamom spiciness lifts aromas of black raspberry and cola. Denser and finer than the 2008, with lovely harmonious mid-palate sweetness leavened by penetrating graphite minerality. There's also a fascinating savory quality here, and a chewiness that gives the wine an impression of power. Finishes very long and gripping, with substantial toothdusting tannins and strong minerality that may come from the shale component in the soil. Winemaker Cory Empting noted that the team is doing a good amount of barrel fermentation as it's necessary to be careful with the extraction of this fruit. (My early look at the 2010 from barrel revealed a highly aromatic but youthfully clenched wine whose thickness of fruit is currently masked by strong acidity and serious tannic spine. It provides more evidence that this new wine will be in a less hedonistic style than Harlan Estate, perhaps more Pauillac-like. The sweet, vibrant yet wonderfully horizontal finish of the young 2010 suggests that it may be the best Promontory vintage yet: today it appears to be in the 92-95 range.)