A knockout blend of 75% Syrah and 25% Petite Sirah, the 2008 Shafer Relentless is a full scaled, heady red that stays beautifully balanced and fresh on the palate. Aged for 30 months in 100% new French oak, it delivers spectacular aromatics of smoked blackberries, crème de cassis, tobacco, mineral, and chocolate like nuances that give way to a full-bodied, awesomely concentrated Syrah that is perfectly balanced and oh so drinkable. Despite the overall size here, this has brilliantly integrated acidity and a lightness to the texture that keeps you coming back for another sip. Thrilling stuff and this should age effortlessly for 12-15 years or more.

Another thoroughbred in the making is the 2008 Relentless. Full-bodied with sensational extract and richness, its opaque purple color is followed by terrific smoky barbecue notes, full-bodied opulence and tremendous depth, power and richness. This stunning Syrah can be drunk over the next 15-20 years. While still renowned for their portfolio of classic world-class reds, Shafer also turns out a terrific non-malolactic Chardonnay from the Red Shoulder Ranch. The only dramatic change made over recent years is that instead of 100% being barrel-fermented and oak-aged, 25% is now aged in stainless steel which has added freshness and possibly longevity. Introduced several years ago, the Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five cuvee is aged 22 months in 100% new French oak. It is meant to be a reference point Cabernet from Stags Leap priced lower than Shafer’s limited production, usually monumental Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon. Shafer’s flagship offering is their monumental Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select (about 2,000 cases produced). Always 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for at least 30 months in oak, this is one of Napa’s most profound wines. Since 1999, Shafer has made a Syrah/Petite Sirah blend (usually 80% of the former and 20% of the latter) aged 32 months in 100% new French oak. The first vintage, the 1999 Relentless, which they opened at the winery to show how well it is aging, is still a baby at age 11. I rated it 96 points, which is higher than the 93 points I gave it in 2002. So much for California Syrah not aging well! The 1999 is still intense with a plum color and lots of grilled meat, herb, licorice and spice characteristics. Tel. (707) 944-2877; Fax (707) 944-9454

(15.6% alcohol; contains 25% petite sirah): Bright medium ruby. Lively aromas of blackberry, violet and pepper. Juicy and youthfully imploded, with impressive and energy and definition to the flavors of black cherry, spices and pepper; hides its 15.6% alcohol nicely. Less fleshy but more fruity than the 2007 version. Winemaker Fernandez believes that this wine will last longer than the earlier vintage, and noted that the 1999 version is very good right now. This was bottled a month prior to my March visit.