EP23 Release: Palmer "A breathtaking wine...sensational" 98-100pts AG
Bordeaux Index
3 June 2024
2023 Palmer is released at a 19.5% discount to the previous vintage.
One of the most enigmatic stars of the Medoc, Chateau Palmer, releases its 2023 today at GBP 2880 per 12 IB
There are few chateaux that deserve consideration amongst the apex of Bordeaux’s entrenched hierarchy quite like Chateau Palmer. As they themselves are keen to point out, in 1855 the estate was undergoing a period of transition, Charles Palmer having sold his holdings to the Pereire family just a decade earlier. So during those years upon which the classification was determined the new owners were busy replanting vines and building a chateau – their lowly 3rd Growth ranking therefore not doing full justice to their true potential. A shame for the proprietors, no doubt, but a boon for the canny consumer who bought (arguably) 1st Growth quality wines for the price of a 3rd.
“A breathtaking wine, the 2023 Palmer is sensational… There is no other wine like Palmer in Bordeaux… If I could pick only one wine to own from the 2023 vintage, Palmer might very well be it.” AG
And the 2023 provides yet more evidence to put forward for the defence, proving not only that Palmer is worthy of a classification upgrade, but that it is very much vying with the Medoc’s most prestigious addresses for a place at the top table. Indeed, given its track record over recent years, who would stand in the witness stand to argue against?
“What a Palmer in 2023!” GH
“It's up with the creme de las crema of the vintage and is about as sexy and seamless as the vintage gets” JD
We were all utterly entranced by Palmer’s inimitable charms this year – sumptuous purity and intense minerality framed by the most luxuriant tannins – if there’s one wine from Margaux we would recommend, aside from their top table neighbours, it would undoubtedly be this.
“The 2023 Palmer is one of the most long-term, serious wines on the Left Bank” N
98-100pts AG Vinous “A breathtaking wine, the 2023 Palmer is sensational. Inky, rich and explosive, the 2023 is a real head-turner. Readers will find an extroverted, dense Palmer that is immediately captivating. Here, too, the balance is mind-blowing. Ample and resonant, the 2023 is striking in its beauty. Waves of layered fruit rush out first, building through to the back end with stunning aromatic intensity. There is no other wine like Palmer in Bordeaux. In a lot of ways, it reminds me of a great Pomerol, as heretical as that might sound! If I could pick only one wine to own from the 2023 vintage, Palmer might very well be it.”
98pts GH Decanter “What a Palmer in 2023! Crazy aromatics, full and bright, packed with intense scents of pink and purple flowers, damson fruit - clearly ripe no doubt, but no overt heat with some graphite and liquorice on the nose too and the dried herb Cabernet notes. Rich, layered and voluptuous, one you could use the word opulent to describe, full of flavour and really fruit forward. Not as overtly juicy as some, more harmonious and balanced, the tannins are perfectly integrated with the fruit and acidity with the added plushness that the Merlot gives to the blend. Powered and structured, but less serious than some with great energy, generosity and charm on show in terms of texture but it’s focussed too with a long length. Something very captivating about this. Lots of cool classicism on the finish with a salty, mineral, oyster shell undercurrent. 55% new oak for the first year in barrel then one year in 30hl foudre. 3.75pH. 13% press. 32hl/ha yield.”
97-99pts JL The Wine Cellar Insider “Violets, tobacco, blackberries, cigar box, spice, and black cherries form the perfume. On the palate, the wine is silky, lush, polished, and fresh. There is length, purity, velvety tannins, and a racy, energetic, fruit-packed finish, with an exotic touch of cardamon in the backend that adds even more of an edge. The almost seamless finish resonates for 50 seconds. The wine blends 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot. 14% ABV, 3.75 pH. The harvest took place September 11 - October 5. Waiting the few extra days in September made the difference in the wine this year. Yields are a scant 32 hectoliters per hectare. Drink from 2029-2065.”
96-98pts JS jamessucking.com “The vivid density and structure to this is really captivating, with pure blackcurrant character. Full-bodied with very silky, refined and ultra-fine tannins and an exquisite finish. Caresses every inch of the palate. It's seems like it will be large and overpowering, but it's actually ethereal and cloud-like. The tannin quality is so refined and, in a way, weightless. 50% cabernet sauvignon, 46% merlot and 4% petit verdot.”
96-98pts LPB The Wine Independent “The 2023 Palmer is opaque purple-black in color. A little broody and subdued to start, notes of tar, damp soil, and crushed rocks soon give way to a core of fresh blackcurrants, wild blueberries, and Morello cherries with a touch of iron ore. The medium-bodied palate delivers bright, shimmery black and red berry flavors with a satiny texture and racy backbone, finishing on a lingering ferrous note. The blend is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot.”
96-98pts JD Jeb Dunnuck “As to the Grand Vin, the 2023 Château Palmer checks in as 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot. It too is inky hued but is much more inward, with gorgeous blue fruits, graphite, charcoal, liquid violets, and crushed stone-like minerality. Rich, full-bodied, incredibly concentrated, and powerful on the palate, it has ultra-fine tannins, remarkable purity, and a great, great finish. It's up with the creme de las crema of the vintage and is about as sexy and seamless as the vintage gets. I wouldn't be surprised to see this top out (or surpass) the barrel rating when all is said and done.”
97pts JA Inside Bordeaux “More reserved and understated than the Alter Ego on the first nose, with touch of gumoke reduction, but it doesn't take long to understand that this Palmer is full of coiled energy and lift. A ton of graphite, crushed rocks, crushed roses and peonies come in waves of aromatics through the palate, along with clearly defined and sculpted blue and red fruits. There is spice too, and a sense of momentum. 32hl/h yield, 55% new oak for ageing during the first year; with the wine then moving in moves into 3000l oak casks for the second year.”
96-97pts WK The Wine Advocate “Director Thomas Duroux and his team elected to harvest late in pursuit of full maturity, beginning with the Merlot on September 11 and finishing the Cabernet Sauvignon on October 5 to produce a beautiful 2023 Palmer, redolent of cherries, wild berries, rose petals and violets. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot, it's medium to full-bodied, plush and enveloping, with a cool core of fruit, succulent acids, ultra-refined tannins and a seamless, complete profile.”
95-97pts NM Vinous “The 2023 Palmer represents two-thirds of the crop this year, raised in barrel (50% new) until July, then racked into 3,000-liter foudres for another 12 months. My sample was representative of the new oak ratio. The nose is very intense, as normal, loaded with blackberry, boysenberry, violet and veins of blood orange in the background. Powerful, though not in the same way as the barnstorming 2022, it manages to retain focus. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grip on the entry. This is quite a deep Palmer with touches of licorice-tinged black fruit. It’s more opulent than almost all other Margaux wines this vintage, furnished with black pepper and allspice on the finish. It will require several years in bottle. The 2023 Palmer is one of the most long-term, serious wines on the Left Bank.”
