From Sauternes to Pauillac: A Masterclass in Elegance with Christian Seely
Bordeaux Index
30 July 2025
An evening with Christian Seely was a perfect tonic to the hugely difficult market we have all been trawling through of late, and a timely reminder that grapes were put on this planet with the sole purpose to enhance our daily lives.
Tom Chadwick, Sales Director, reflects on a recent dinner with Christian Seely - CEO of AXA Millésimes - where Christian gave the team a masterclass on his hugely delicious and impressive dry whites.
FROM SAUTERNES TO PAUILLAC
Back in 2004, Christian made the rather odd, at the time, pivot into focusing more on making dry white wines from his 1er Cru Sauternes vineyards. Internally, the decision was met with scepticism at first, but a blind tasting for his team with some Hunter Valley aged Sémillons was the turning point, and the idea quickly gathered pace. In Christian’s words ‘I wanted to show you can make excellent dry white wines from 1er Cru Vineyards in Sauternes.’ 20 years later, and the decision has been more than validated. From start to finish, the dry whites were delicious and are more than worth knowing about. Above all, they have an abundance of drinkability, and this is surely what we are all looking for.
In a very short space of time Christian has turned the fortunes, or rather lack of, and implemented, a dry white wine strategy that is making considerable impact. I was lucky enough to drink the 2023 Suduiraut Sec VV over supper and it really is superb!
And just to remind us of the heights Sweet Bordeaux can reach, the 2022 Suduiraut, Sauternes was as moreish and refreshing as they come – opulent, ripe, excellent botrytis NB 190g of residual sugar against the norm 150. Think cooked pineapple, marmalade – it is oh so moreish.
Of the Grand Vin Pichon Baron, the 2009 and 2010 duo are two wonderful examples of this great Château performing expertly in two very different vintages. The 2009 is so instantly delicious – Exuberant and opulent combined with that mineral and wonderful oyster shell saline drive that keeps it altogether. The 2010 in my eyes, is a small step up, and there is very little to differentiate on quality, more stylistic. It is starting to reveal developed and secondary characteristics but all the while retaining its intensity, depth, and concentration - hallmarks of the vintage – and alongside the texture and finely grained tannins – this is just delicious. If you have both vintages, then I suspect you may find yourself drinking the 09s first, with gusto! NB the 2010 Pichon Baron is in Christian’s top three vintages from the last twenty-five years.
The 2005 is another firm favourite of mine and they are just hitting a beautiful spot right now – certainly the window is only just ajar but it is open and inviting. It is Bordeaux as you expect it; finely grained tannins, plenty of grip, and long, long finish. I’d say it will keep going for another twenty years easily, and vintage to start tucking into.
Lastly, the elder statesmanlike, 1996 vintage; bang on the money and quintessential Pauillac. Ripe, integrated, and harmonious. Again, this has time left to slumber, but why miss out? I’d suggest this FINE wine be given due attention. Perhaps one of the best 96s I have had for some time.
And of course to finish – the alluring, delicious, rare and young Quinta do Noval Nacional 2011. I have not drunk or tasted since release, and whilst young, it is disarmingly tempting and easy to enjoy now. But, it will only evolve and reveal so much more over the coming years, and my word it is going to repay your patience many, many times over. Today it is still packed with youthful exuberance and multi layers of dense prune and dried fruits, cassis and mindboggling intensity. It is exotic already, but the peacock tail is not quite ready to reveal all just yet.
In a word, sublime, and I cannot wait to watch this over the coming years.
Drink more Port, drink more dry white Bordeaux, and make sure you have the above vintages of the Grand Vin Baron in your cellar to enjoy too.
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Wines tasted:
2024 Lions de Suduiraut
92 Pts AG ‘The 2024 Blanc Sec Lions de Suduiraut is fabulous. Intensely aromatic and deep, the 2024 is so impressive right out of the gate. Orchard fruit, white flowers, sage, mint and tomato leaf race across the palate, framed by brisk acids that pull it all together.’
2024 Suduiraut Vieilles Vignes – 45 Yr Old Vines – Drink 2026 – 2035
93-95 Pts NM ‘The 2024 Grand Vin Blanc Sec Vieilles Vignes emerges from 45-year-old vines. Rich, textured and wonderfully deep, the Vieilles Vignes is seriously impressive. The 2024 is not quite as effusive as some earlier vintages, but that is probably a good thing for the long term. Readers will find a potent, deep white loaded with personality. Pear, marzipan, white flowers, mint and chamomile build into the deep, resonant finish. Floral notes and brisk acids resonate on the close.’
2023 Suduiraut Vieilles Vignes – Drink Now - 2035
95 Pts AG ‘The 2023 Grand Vin Blanc Sec Vieilles Vignes is classy, elegant and polished. All the elements are impeccably balanced in a sublime, refined white that hits all the right notes. Green pear, mint, white pepper and jasmine build in the glass.’
2022 Suduiraut, 1er Cru Sauternes – Drink Now - 2050
96 Pts NM ‘The 2022 Suduiraut presents a bewitching bouquet of dried honey, lanolin, saffron and light orange pith scents, all harmonious and well delineated. This might be better than I estimated from barrel. The palate is balanced with great density and weight, a viscous texture, a fine bead of acidity and a hint of passion fruit toward the intense finish. Outstanding.’