Tasted at the “Rewards of Patience” vertical in Berlin. Compared to the 2002 and 2003 for example, the 2004 St Henri Shiraz (a blend of 96% Shiraz and 4% Cabernet) is far more reticent on the nose and has definitely closed down for a while. It is broody, almost saturnine, with hints of dark chocolate, liquorice and crushed violet. The palate is masculine and structure, a demonstrative St. Henri with an obdurate structure, a vaulted backbone that keeps the fruit linear and strict until it eventual decides to mellow. It unreservedly veers to the more Bordeaux-like St. Henri, but to be frank, it is rather impenetrable now and needs at least a decade before it entertains the notion of drinkability. Even then, it might tell you to bugger off, because that is the personality of this wine. Drink 2020-2045. Tasted June 2012.

Very deep garnet-purple in color, this St Henri has a very pretty floral nose with notes of violets, choco-mint, warm blackberry and nutmeg plus a faint hint of black olives. Purely fruited in the mouth, the rich fruit is nicely balanced by refreshing acid and a medium-firm level of fine-grained tannins, finishing long.

Opaque ruby. Sexy boysenberry and cherry-cola on the nose, with spicy mineral and cracked pepper notes adding energy. Juicy and fresh, with vibrant dark berry flavors, silky tannins and very good back-end lift. The tannins gain strength on the finish but don't obscure the energetic fruit. Very impressive shiraz; supple enough to drink on the young side but I'd put mine away for at least another decade.

The 2004 St.-Henri Shiraz was sourced from five regions and aged in seasoned oak. Purple-colored, the nose gives up aromas of smoke, game, Asian spices, blueberry, and blackberry. Smooth-textured on the palate, it is nicely layered with savory fruit, lots of spice, and enough stuffing to evolve for 3-5 years. This lengthy effort will be in its prime from 2012 to 2022. Penfolds produces a bevy of excellent value-priced wines, many of which were reviewed in Issue 178. Importer: Southcorp Wines USA; www.penfolds.com.au

Actually rather a cool, tight nose, Great deep crimson. Round and supple yet fresh. Surprisingly forward and approachable, presumably thanks to its maturation in larger oak than most of these wines. Bone dry finish. Stones – no sweetness at all! Most unfortunately, I am unable to comment further on this wine. I tasted it early evening of Tuesday 29 April, put it away in a box with all the other samples so that I could re-taste it the next day and then went out, leaving my menfolk and many others to bite their nails over the Man Utd v Barcelona match. Imagine my dismay the following morning when I found this bottle empty and in the recycling bin. At least they left an inch of the Grange… To find out more about this wine, see Campbell Mattinson’s excellent online video review here or see Gago’s “notes of nutmeg, lavender, rosemary and musk with evocative wafts of black and red liquorice arising. Some floral aromas are present although assorted fruits dominate with glazed cherries, prune (fruitcake mixture) to the fore. Close inspection reveals aged pipe tobacco and roasted lamb juice [to go with the rosemary? JR] and quince complexities”. £25 (JR)

96% Shiraz, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barossa Valley, Langhorne Creek, Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale. Dense black cherry fruit. Very compact and hearty, with firm but spherical tannic feel. Super-powered intensity, but not heavy and overblown. Glossy and substantial. (RH)