Exhibits very pretty red currant, violet and red licorice notes, with a sleek, mineral-tinged finish. This is also sneakily long, relying more on purity than power. This could move up if it puts on weight.-J.M.

From the flagship estate of visionary Stephan von Neipperg, I noticed some sample variations on the four occasions I had this wine. Cropped at 33 hectoliters per hectare with a final blend of 60% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is generally a fruit-forward style of wine with an exotic, perfumed personality. The 2011 reveals a soft, sexy style with lots of Christmas fruitcake notes intermixed with cedarwood, spice box, black currants and kirsch. Fleshy and fat with impressive purity, texture and length, it can be enjoyed over the next 10-14 years.

Racy and fine with a lovely pure fruit. The Cabernet Franc in this is really coming through. Minerally and fine. Pretty wine. 60% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc, and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Cropped between 15th and 30th September at 30hl/ha, the Canon-la-Gaffeliere has a surprisingly closed bouquet compared to the Clos de l’Oratoire with faint red berry and fish scale aromas. The palate is more in the mould of Canon-la-Gaffeliere with plush tannins and velvety mouthfeel, although it is missing some weight at the back end at the moment. Perhaps this will be filled is during maturation? We will see. Tasted April 2012.

Drink 2018-2028 32% Cabernet Franc (some planted prior to 1953), 60% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon. 80% new oak but it doesn't overwhelm. Lovely aroma. Chocolate over Cabernet Franc freshness. Some oaky char but fluid freshness in the mouth. Fine, fine dense tannins. Violet notes. (JH)