A bottle of 1990 Chasse-Spleen is ordered off the list and served blind to fellow diners who rattled through every Bordeaux appellations except for Moulis! Tut-tut. Because this is a fantastic Chasse-Spleen that demonstrates what Moulis can do in a great vintage. The nose is complex with scents of dark berry fruit, freshly tilled earth, morels and tobacco. The warmth of the vintage is held back by the austerity of the Cabernet Sauvignon and reaching an irresistible equilibrium. The palate is beautifully balanced with svelte tannin. Not a plump Chasse-Spleen by any means, but rounded and caressing in the mouth. Everything just feels in its right place. It nonchalantly fans out towards the finish with subtle sous-bois notes and a hint of pencil lead on the aftertaste. I am reminded of the 1947 Chasse-Spleen I enjoyed earlier this year, from a similarly hot summer, so perhaps this 1990 is a modern-day equivalent? Just wonderful. Tasted at The Arches restaurant in London. Tasted July 2018

The 1990 has evolved well and is displaying far greater intensity, medium to full body, herb and black cherry-scented flavors, soft tannins, and good ripeness and richness. It is not as super-concentrated as the brilliant 1989, but it is an immensely attractive, round, soft, well-made wine. Drink it over the next decade.

Good deep red. Somewhat herbaceous, sweaty-saddle aromas improved in the glass, revealing some black cherry. Decent sweetness and texture; good material here and just enough acidity. Finishes with tongue-coating but ripe tannins and lingering fruit. Can be enjoyed now, but give it some air first.

The simplest of this range of a dozen 1990s, as one might expect. Bright ruby with a pale rim. Light nose suggesting slight herbaceousness. Sweetness underneath. Certainly aromatic but acidity nudging in on the finish. Cassis fruit is fading. But it's fairly persistent and certainly comforting. I think one would be delighted to be served this in isolation.
JR - August 2018