The 2003 La Lagune was the first vintage whereby Denis Dubourdieu acted as consultant. It has a more fruit forward bouquet compared to the 2002 and it has aged well, offering redcurrant, dried fig and a touch of tinned prune on the nose, yet without the VA or sur-maturité that afflict other 2003s. The palate is medium-bodied with a peppery opening, fine tannin, admirable freshness for this vintage with more tension on the finish than one might expect, plus I appreciate the discrete touch of bay leaf and white pepper on the aftertaste. Tasted at the La Lagune vertical at the château. www.vinous.com

Thankfully, this wonderful estate, which provided me with many memorable drinking experiences in the 1970s and 1980s, has rebounded from a period of mediocrity. The 2003 and 2004 offerings from La Lagune are the finest back-to-back vintages they have produced in over fifteen years. Kudos to the Frey family, who also purchased the Rhone Valley flagship firm of Paul Jaboulet-Aine in 2005. Their daughter, Caroline Frey, is the oenologist at La Lagune. The sexy, up-front, evolved 2003 La Lagune exhibits a dark ruby/purple hue as well as big nose of cedar, spice box, black cherry jam, licorice, and smoke. Savory, broad, ripe, and low in acidity, it is a total hedonistic and intellectual turn-on. Enjoy it now or cellar it for 15+ years. It is unquestionably the finest La Lagune since 1982.