The 2010 Bonnes-Mares is a towering, statuesque wine. Layers of fruit burst from the glass in this multi-dimensional, kaleidoscopic wine. It’s hard to fully capture the wine in words. Let me just say, all of the elements are in the right place. In 2010 the Bonnes-Mares captures a striking marriage of power and sensuality. This is a marvelously complete wine from Bruno Clair. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2045. This is a fabulous set of wines from Bruno Clair and his long-time oenologist Philippe Brun. The harvest started on September 25. Yields were 22-30 hectoliters per hectare, which is to say a good 10% less than 2003, a torrid vintage marked by tiny yields. Clair describes the fruit as healthy, with no botrytis and soft tannins from the late harvest. The 2010s were 100% destemmed. New oak ranged from 25% for the villages to 50% for the Grand Crus, except for the Marsannays, which saw very little new oak. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL; tel. (708) 343-6702, The Source, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 621-6151