The 2012 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru was showing a little reduction on the nose, but peering under that, there appears to be some excellent ripe black fruit. The palate showed less reduction, exhibiting superb weight and concentration in the mouth, hints of tealeaf infusing the mixture of red and black fruit, while the finish displayed commendable concentration and mineralite. Drink 2017-2030+. I have a strong affection for Domaine Maume, whose unapologetically traditional, often herbaceous wines had a propensity to evolve into quite compelling expression of Pinot Noir that you either love or hate. Certainly, when I conducted a vertical of their Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru back to the mid-1980s several years ago, I was not alone in appreciating their freshness and terroir expression. They ticked enough boxes for me. Winemaker Bertrand Maume had a canny knack of creating wines that initially seemed to lack depth, yet given bottle age and aeration, revealed hidden depths that made his wines mysteriously captivating. I use the past tense because in 2011 the family shareholders decided to capitalize on their interest and among much speculation, sold to Murray Tawse, who backs winemaker Pascal Marchand. The good news is that Bertrand has been retained and was present when I tasted recent releases. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant Importer, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; Fax (510) 528-7026. Also through Berry Brothers in the UK.

80% new oak. Very special plants apparently. 40% whole bunch. Dark crimson. Slight char on the nose. Very sweet start. Not subtle! Quite severe and even a bit of greenness. Hard work! Falls away a bit suddenly. Demanding. Opens towards the end. I am not worthy, perhaps? It is certainly still very embryonic. (JR)