You may raise an eyebrow at my score, but this note was taken under blind conditions where it could have been a Chardonnay from anywhere in the world. The 2014 Meursault Clos des Ambres has a killer reduction on the nose with intense mineralité. It almost shocks the senses. The palate is fresh and vivacious, so penetrating and razor-sharp that you might think it is a Grand Cru. The energy just bursts through on the finish. In fact, this ends up with my highest score in a tough blind tasting. I can understand why people pay top dollar. Tasted a the New World/Old World Chardonnay Challenge in London.

(aged in a 14-hectoliter foudre and one new pièce): Bright, pale yellow. Lemon zest and crushed rock on the nose. Tightly wound, intensely flavored and classically dry; more reductive than the basic village bottling and more austere too. Showing little in the way of fleshiness or easy sweetness but this wine boasts terrific energy and finishes high-pitched and long, with a light touch.