In the hands of Fèvre winemaker Didier Séguier, premier cru Montmains has a certain initial reserve. But with time, the green apple and gooseberry notes, touched with acacia blossoms and spice, open up on the palate. The texture is lively and fresh, yet there is substance here as well. [Charles Curtis MW]

Assembled earlier today, so cloudy and this procedure also masks the nose. Classic Montmains behind, with the usual reductive grip, yet also some elegance, very persistent. The lees were first class, says Didier Seguier and this certainly has the makings of a first class Montmains. Drink from 2027-2034.

An exuberantly fresh nose speaks of mineral reduction, prominent floral, oyster shell and essence of pear scents. There is again solid volume and richness to the seductively textured middle weight flavors that possess just a bit more finishing verve as well as more evident minerality. Here too there is a touch of warmth but it’s not really enough to materially impair the overall sense of balance.

From 3.8 hectares of vines on a late ripening terroir, the 2023 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru was the last to be picked. It has a fresh nose, Granny Smith and light shucked oyster shell scents. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, steelier than the Beauroy with a slightly abrupt finish at the moment. Today, it is just a little raw, hence my prudent score.