Desirée' is the designation the Lafon domaine has used since the 19th century for their Meursault from the lieu-dit Les Pétures (also known as Les Plures) in the Santenots sector. Planted to Chardonnay, it has village-level status. Lafon presses the grapes slowly and ferments in cask with a moderate use of new wood to produce this alluring wine with ripe apricot and quince fruit and a suggestion of white flowers. The texture is rich and dense, and the finish lingers luxuriously on the palate.

The 2022 Meursault Désirée is another lovely rendition of this cuvée, offering up aromas of peach, pear, orange oil, white flowers and buttery pastry. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and fleshy, it's pure and racy, concluding with an aromatic finish. As readers may remember, it hails from a warm site near Santenots, just below Meursault's campground.

Cask sample. Mid lemon. Ripe apples, peach. Open and showing a little Meursault opulence. Dry on the finish. Fresh, balanced acidity. Length. (MH)