The 2015 Meursault Les Charmes 1er Cru is taut and linear, more reticent than the Clos de la Barre at the moment, yet it evolves in the glass and reveals a Perrières-like stoniness. The palate pivots around a silver bead of acidity with citrus peel and nectarine notes, demonstrating greater depth than its peers on the powerful finish. Superb! Tasted at the 05/15 Burgundy dinner in The Good Earth.

From younger vines (one-third of the ultimate cuvée ): Pale yellow. Ineffable high notes of spice oils and candied citrus fruits. Brisk and energetic, displaying juicy acidity for the year. From vines that are nearly 80 years of age (to comprise two-thirds of the blend): Pungent lemon candy on the nose. Suave, fine-grained and intense, with its superb density and thickness cut by lively acidity. Should make an outstanding premier cru. (Lafon's Gouttes d'Or, Poruzots and Perrières were in tanks in early June, still in the early stages of their malolactic fermentations.)

Cask sample. Next to Perrières vines, near Combettes of Sauzet. Very neat and charming with a strong herbal spine. Lemon freshess and finesse. (JR)