The 2013 Volnay Vendanges Selectionées comes from a selection of 50-year-old vines on more calcareous soils that tend to produce more "vin de garde" fruit than vines used for the Volnay Village. There was no 2012 produced by the domaine While it is adorned with similar scents as the Village, there is a greater sense of depth and intensity on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, more backbone than the Village Cru and a sense of symmetry toward the finish. Give this 5-6 years in bottle before broaching, and you will have a very serious Volnay on your hands.

Healthy medium red. Reticent but energetic aromas of raspberry, licorice, menthol and peppery herbs. Dense and fine-grained, with black cherry and herb flavors spreading out horizontally on the back end. Finishes subtle and long. This was 12% natural alcohol chaptalized to 12.5%.

Terroir selection in the centre of the appellation just below the premiers crus. Richer and riper on the nose than the village wine. Core and bitter cherries. Absolutely bone dry, cries out for time, but it will surely make delightful old bones. (JR)