Ultra-bright cherry and rhubarb are the brash protagonists of the Ligniers’ 2008 Charmes-Chambertin, whose carnal side comes out on a fine-grained palate as salted beef marrow. Hints of vanilla and resin from its 100% new wood are not obtrusive, and this finishes with real refreshment and energy. I would expect it to be worth following for most of a decade if not longer. Hubert and Laurent Lignier – for more on whose recent evolution as a domaine and as negociants, consult my report in issue 186 – had one barrel from 2008 still stuck in malo last February, and several others had only finished by Christmas. No wines had been bottled (though they were assembled) when I last tasted them in February; indeed even the 2007s here were not bottled until May and June of 2009. Natural alcohol in the 2008 collection peaked at 13% in the Charmes and Combottes (due to extreme millerandage there, notes Laurent Lignier) and all of the wines were very lightly-chaptalized. Sorting was much less arduous for them in 2008 than 2007, he adds. As is evident from my rating, the array of wines from lesser locations or that incorporate purchased fruit have not (in the years since the splitting-up of control over this estate) nearly approached the consistently outstanding quality that the three or four top Lignier bottlings continue to exhibit. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Much, much paler and more orange than his Clos de la Roche. Mid ruby. Gentle fruity nose that is much more flattering than most 2008s. Very comfortable. Like an old pair of slippers. Lots of comfort in the short term. If you want to buy a smart bottle of burgundy to give to someone this year, try this one. But I can’t see it making old bones. (JR)