Initially a mild touch of reduction mutes the nose but some aggressive swirling quickly releases a kaleidoscopically broad range of spice nuances that add real breadth to the ultra-elegant, ripe and quite pure aromas of red pinot, plum and cassis that precede the rich, full and silky medium-bodied flavors that are discreet yet powerful and superbly persistent. This is an exceptionally stylish and classy wine that is supported by ultra-fine tannins and the hallmark finishing austerity. While the '09 La Romanée is essentially a wine of finesse it doesn't mean that it isn't built to age because it more assuredly is, indeed it will require at least 20 years to arrive at its peak.

The 2009 La Romanée is stunningly beautiful. It boasts the most sensual, sleek tannins imaginable. Sweet cherries in liqueur, roses, spices and licorice are woven together in a fabric of indescribable elegance. Words are superfluous in describing this eternal, timeless beauty. Frankly, it was hard to spit the 2009,

Good full medium red. Knockout, soil-driven nose combines black raspberry, flint, coffee and smoky minerality. Like liquid silk in the mouth but with superb energy for the vintage. In its creamy sweetness, firm structure and tight but fine-grained texture this reminded me of a platonic 2007 Barolo. The rising, palate-staining finish features noble tannins and exhilarating sweetness. Liger-Belair believes that the better 2009 red Burgundies will age for 20 years, but he thinks the 2008s and 2010s will be even longer-lived due to their precision and acidity.

The 2009 La Romanée Grand Cru puts in a curious showing. Paler in hue, I wonder whether there is any stem addition in the wine. Indeed, the nose is lighter than expected, with red cherries, strawberries, loam and espresso. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with commendable sharpness on the entry. Lightly spiced with a little attenuation towards the finish. To be honest, I was expecting more. Tasted blind at the 2009 horizontal at Club 1243.